一种正反捻异经异纬弹力双层服装面料的
2022-03-11 16:33:27   来源:   评论:0 点击:

为开发一种自带暗条纹效果,穿着舒适且耐磨性好的服装面料,介绍一种正反捻异经异纬双层服装面料的开发生产,包括经纬纱选用、表层经纱纺制要点,面料设计思路,


张五九,赵纪卫,范永刚,唐建东,胡雨晴,曹盼盼,姚静静
(际华三五四二纺织有限公司,湖北 襄阳  441002)
 
摘要:为开发一种自带暗条纹效果,穿着舒适且耐磨性好的服装面料,介绍一种正反捻异经异纬双层服装面料的开发生产,包括经纬纱选用、表层经纱纺制要点,面料设计思路,整经、浆纱工艺,穿综穿筘要求,以及织造工艺要求等。表明:织造涤/天竹 50/50 11.66 tex(Z)+涤/天竹 50/50 11.66 tex(S)(5∶5)×涤/天竹 50/50 18.22 tex(4.44 tex)+OE 83.30 tex(2∶1)×693×421×198.12半弹力双层织物,通过参数的合理选用,实现织物自身的暗条纹效果;通过技术优化解决了常规织造设备无法生产此类织物的问题,保证该弹力双层服装面料的开发成功。
关键词:异经异纬;正捻;反捻;暗条纹;织造技术;弹力;双层;服装面料
中图分类号:TS103.3           文献标志码:B             文章编号:1001-9634(2021)04-0047-03
 
收稿日期:2020-06-29
作者简介:张五九(1983—),男,陕西富平人,工程师,主要从事纺织新产品开发方面的研究。
 
Production Practice of the S Twist and Z Twist Different Warp and Weft Elastic
Double
-layer Clothing Fabric
ZHANG Wujiu,ZHAO Jiwei,FAN Yonggang,TANG Jiandong
HU Yuqing
,CAO Panpan,YAO Jingjing
(Jihua 3542 Textile Co.,Ltd.,Xiangyang 441002,China)
 
Abstract:In order to develop a kind of wear comfortable and good abrasion resistance clothing fabric with dark stripes itself,development and production of the S twist and Z twist different warp and weft elastic double-layer clothing fabric is introduced,including warp and weft yarn selection,key points of spinning for surface warp yarn,fabric design,warping and sizing process,drafting and reeding requirements,as well as the weaving process requirements,etc.It is indicated that the dark stripe effect of the fabric itself can be realized through the reasonable selection of parameters for weaving the semi-elastic double-layer fabric of polyester/bamboo 50/50 11.66 tex(Z)+polyester/bamboo 50/50 11.66 tex(S)(5∶5)×polyester/bamboo 50/50 18.22 tex(4.44 tex)+OE 83.30 tex(2∶1)×693×421×198.12;the problem that conventional weaving equipment can’t produce this kind of fabric is solved by technical optimization,which ensures the successful development of the elastic double-layer clothing fabric.
Key Words:different warp and weft;S twist;Z twist;dark stripes;weaving technology;elasticity;double-layer;clothing fabric
 
参考文献:
[1] 姚穆.纺织材料学[M].3版.北京:中国纺织出版社,2009.
[2] 顾平.织物结构与设计学[M].上海:东华大学出版社,2004.
[3] 谢光银.机织物设计原理[M].北京:化学工业出版社,2005.
[4] 张五九,范永刚,赵纪卫,等.竹浆纤维纱与聚乳酸纱交织物的开发[J].棉纺织技术,2020,48(3):77-79.
 


相关热词搜索:异经异纬 正捻 反捻

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