麻衬衫生产工艺研究
2023-07-06 16:05:40   来源：   评论：0 点击：

  关键词：麻衬衫；纬斜；滑脱；裁剪；粘衬；辅料；缝制；整烫；水洗
中图分类号：TS121.9            文献标志码：B            文章编号：1001-9634(2023)03-0053-04
 
收稿日期：2022-02-20；修回日期：2022-10-18
作者简介：宋海燕（1976—），女，山东淄博人，高级工程师，主要从事纺织服装工程及设备管理方面的研究。
   
Abstract:In order to solve the problems in hemp shirt production，such as weft skew，size instability，easy slipping off，poor washing feel and difficult in quality control，the causes of the problems are studied from the aspects of cutting，lining，auxiliary materials，sewing，finishing-ironing and washing technology，and the solutions are put forward.It is pointed out that we should adopt manual pulling cloth，and use thinner adhesive lining and low temperature flat pressing，which can prevent the size deviation caused by large shrinkage of lining for hemp fabric.Soft lining and live lining are suitable for hemp fabric，which can not change the essence of hemp fabric style and high strength after bonding；the quality of sewing should be controlled from stitch density，sewing  needle，suture tension adjustment，left and right front flap，etc.Reasonable ironing temperature should be adopted.Hemp fabric should be humidified before ironing.Special personnel should be set up to flatten collar，front flap and bottom edge.Reasonable washing process is adopted to avoid the itching，rough and rough feeling of hemp shirt，so that the hemp fabric has soft，smooth and dry feeling，and can improve the elasticity and wrinkle resistance of the fabric.
Key Words:hemp shirt；weft skew；slipping off；cutting；lining；auxiliary materials；sewing；finishing-ironing；washing
 
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