解决免烫衬衫接缝部位起皱的实践
2022-08-31 15:11:42   来源:   评论:0 点击:

为了解决免烫衬衫接缝部位起皱问题,从门襟、侧缝、底边、袖窿、后片收省、袖头、合肩缝、袖褀及翻领方面,分析原有缝制手法、设备、工具和样板等引起接缝起皱的原因,总结出对应的调


李凤霞,宋海燕,和玉芳,宋法强
(鲁泰纺织股份有限公司,山东 淄博    255100)
 
摘要:为了解决免烫衬衫接缝部位起皱问题,从门襟、侧缝、底边、袖窿、后片收省、袖头、合肩缝、袖褀及翻领方面,分析原有缝制手法、设备、工具和样板等引起接缝起皱的原因,总结出对应的调整方法和步骤,并对比统计起皱改善等级。结果表明:通过调整缝制手法和设备,规范操作流程,免烫衬衫门襟起皱级别提高0.3级~0.5级,侧缝提高0.2级~0.5级,底边提高0.3级~0.5级,袖窿提高0.2级~0.5级,满足客户要求。
关键词:免烫衬衫;接缝;起皱;门襟;侧缝;底边;袖窿;缝制手法
中图分类号:TS103.321             文献标志码:B              文章编号:1001-9634(2022)03-0044-04
 
收稿日期:2021-08-11
作者简介:李凤霞(1980—),女,山东巨野人,工程师,主要从事纺织服装工程方面的工作。
 
Practice of Solving Seaming Part Wrinkling of Non-ironing Shirt
LI Fengxia,SONG Haiyan,HE Yufang,SONG Faqiang
(Luthai Textile Co.,Ltd.,Zibo 255100,China)
 
Abstract:In order to solve the problem of seaming part wrinkling of non-ironing shirt,the causes of seaming part wrinkling are analyzed result from existing sewing technique,equipments,tools,templates from the aspect of placket,side seam,bottom side,armhole,the back piece dart,sleeve,joining shoulder seam,sleeve and lapel,and lapel collar.The corresponding adjustment methods and steps are summarized,and the improvement grade of wrinkling is compared and counted.The results show that by adjusting the sewing technique and equipment and standardizing the operation process,the wrinkling level of the placket of non-ironing  shirt can be increased by 0.3~0.5,the side seam by 0.2~0.5,the bottom side by 0.3~0.5,and the armhole by 0.2~0.5,which meet the requirements of customers.
Key Words:non-ironing  shirt;wrinkling;seaming;placket;side seam;bottom side;armhole;sewing technique
 
参考文献:
[1] 王军,吴志明.影响修身版男衬衫肩部起皱的因素探析[J] .广西轻工业,2011(3):99-100.
[2] 宋海燕,李凤霞.提高免烫衬衫袖窿起皱级别的方法[J] .纺织科技进展,2012(3):94-96.
[3] 陈霞.免烫面料成衣加工缝口缩皱研究[J] .纺织导报,2009(4):86-87.革新改造

 

相关热词搜索:免烫衬衫 接缝 起皱

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